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New York Newsday
6/14/98
By: Peter Gianotti
Barbara Smith has a summer home in Sag Harbor. Now, her restaurant does, too. Smith, the TV personality, doyenne d'entertaining, and model restaurateur, is on WNBC, and at cateries in the Theater District, NYC and Union Station, D.C. You'll also see B. Smith in framed photos with H. Clinton and T. Gore, among others, and on assorted magazine covers at the entrance to the waterside establishment, which she owns with her husband, producer Dan Gasby.
Their latest confection has breezed in as a summertime appetizer, prettily perched at Malloy's Marina at the very end of Main Street.
The previous occupants have included George Studley's Long Wharf and the Amazon Deck. But the joint never looked this bright and welcoming.
Its casual style is The Full-Hampton, but gracefully so, with sunny, creamy yellow walls and lighter molding, plus blue and white stripped half-moon banquettes.
You'll have a lovely view of twilight on the water from this long dining room. Or enjoy the sunset alfresco, from a table on the deck.
On weekends, B. Smith's is wildly popular, and noisy. Service can be erratic. But the mood, nevertheless, remains upbeat. The kitchen is reliable and the food often very good.
Simplicity counts, especially with the fat, grilled asparagus spears that corral a sweet, union of corn and lobster. Curled through not entirely "crisped" oysters get a spirited boost from the coconut-wasabi dip, a sweet-hot jump-starter. The catfish crisps are small fries, sort of fish sans chips, and are accented with a zesty remoulade and tartar sauce.
The chowder of lobster, corn and chives is rich, but a trifle under-seasoned and lukewarm. Consider instead the roast tomato gazpacho, accented with a scallop garnish.
A salad of good greens receives its personality from crumbled Maytag blue cheeses or toasted goat cheese. The tower of oven-roasted tomato, smoked and fresh mozzarellas, grilled Vidalia onions and olive oil sounds more inviting than it is. The combo is a little dull.
The serious salad at B. Smith's involved a whole lobster deftly "dressed" in a "Fifties fashion", which must mean spiked mayo and paired with slaw. Anyway, very good. And while advertised and priced as an entrée, it works even better as a starter. "Pan griddled crab-cake" is loosely bound, plump, meaty and flavorful atop greens.
The "pan tanned sweet chili prawns" are tougher than they should be, though the caramelized plantains alongside will keep you picking. The sea-fare improves dramatically with the "down island jerked Montauk mako" a meaty cut, sparked with spice.
Best however, are two gutsy dishes: "shag bark hickory ribs," a huge portion of tenderness and taste nearly draping over the sides of the platter, and a husky pork chops finished with ham-hock gravy, greens and fried plantains. They are meaty and grand.
During the early weeks of B. Smith's the finales have been few. The Sweet-Potato and Pecan Pie, more like individual tartlets, is homey and fine.
Chocolate-covered strawberries are almost the size of an august peach, and if not perfectly ripe then rescued by their coat. Ice creams, are standard, not enough for you to forget Big Olaf's down the block. But the setting and style of B. Smith's are their own dessert. The season is here.
** (2 stars)
Assessment: Summer a week early
Open: Dinner and Lunch Monday to Saturday, Sunday brunch, Reservations recommended
Price Range: Dinner Main courses, $14 to $34; appetizers and salads $7 to $14; soups $8 to $9; Lunch entrees $9 to $15. Major credit cards accepted.
Directions: On the waterfront at the end of Main Street.
Wheelchair Access: One level dining room.
Four Stars: Outstanding
Three Stars: Excellent
Two Stars: Very Good
One: Good
None: Fair to Good
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